//Acrimony

NY Travel Diary #264

If you read even just a few menswear blogs or publications you’ve probably seen every single new collection for Autumn 2012 released thus far. The problem with reading through 2000 posts is that half, maybe more than half of the collections are brands and looks you don’t care to see. It’s good to be educated on a broad range of designers, but I don’t think “showing at Pitti” is a simple qualifier for broadcast blogging. If you’re reading this blog, you probably like at least one brand we carry. That means you’ll really enjoy seeing this curated selection of brand previews for AW12. 

Japanese label J.S. Homestead, part of Journal Standard, put out a collection consisting of workwear favorites including more repros of the Brown’s Beach Vest. While I admire the detailing in reproduction, I really like this particular hand knit vest paired with gingham and denim classics.

Fall will be the season for knits. Chunky knit sweaters, vests, scarves, beanies, everything knit. These guys from Antwerp are making 100% wool scarves in these bold patterns. I’m really excited to add this to our brand line-up. Howlin’ by Morrison.

Fall will represent our 2nd season with ISAORA. Technical performance in the form of well designed outerwear and layering pieces proves to be one of my favorite recipes for success. Japanese Toray fabric camouflage shells, reversible PrimaLoft jackets, wool jersey henleys, and Porter collab backpacks make for a warm (good looking) winter. 

If Fall won’t be your season to splurge on an exceptional piece of outerwear, we’ll have tons of accessories to keep you fitted. Folk, born in London in 2001, has a compact offering of scarves, hats, and belts to complete your wardrobe. Available Fall 2012~

I’m excited to see that Billykirk is bringing back the laptop bag from a few seasons ago. With laptops acting as desktops and most people toting around an iPad instead, it would seem the laptop case would become obsolete. But not this one. We still get calls for this one. We’re also picking up the full leather style, and some new hats and keychains.

Robert Geller’s collection was definitely one of my favorites for AW12. He isn’t doing Seconds anymore, but you’ll see lots of basics (at good price points) infused into the main line. The concept is post-punk. The leftovers of the punk era with some subtle refinements. Polka dot shirts without the combat boots, plaids with short collars and buttoned high, shirt jackets and wide neck henleys. 

SILENT Damir Doma is surprisingly adding (more) color to the collection. On a personal level, I love the blacks and neutrals. But I guess a little color is deserving in the winter, especially in his luxe fabrications. There’s a leather jacket sub $900, an update to the Trennus hoodie, thicker cotton weights in the basic long sleeves, and a new backpack everyone is going to want. 

I also previewed the women’s collection: this long coat almost came home with me.

Gitman Brothers Vintage was just as impressive as ever. With references to 1979, we’ll see plaids from the Gitman archive as well as 1979 archival patterns from the Portuguese flannel factory. This season Gitman will also introduce the reverse brushed oxford. Brushed on one size, oxford flat on the other. And the shirts can be made with either side out. We’ll be choosing the best variants, I cannot speak for the other Gitman stockists. *wink. Also featured, a number of Japanese fabrics including chambrays, corduroy prints and selvedge poplins. Fall 2012 will represent the biggest assortment of Gitmans we’ve ever featured by season. You will not be disappointed.

As for Wings + Horns, I’m not allowed to post any images, even though they are circulating all over Hypebeast and other blogs. If you want to see images of the full range, pop into the store. In case you were wondering, it looks as good as expected for a Fall/Winter range. Lots of layering basics in updated colors (purple!) and the introduction of a camo print in shirting, polos and a bush pant style. This is the only (good/subtle) camo I’ve really seen so we’ll be buying heavy into it. The cashmere program this year is a little less “basic” with a better hand and more complex knit. You’ll be seeing a great jumper as well as cashmere blend accessories. There’s a black on black on black suede hi-top for Fall that will make your face melt off. We’ll be stocking that as well.

No trip is complete without one of these. You should know I’m obsessed with the Michelada, and have made it my mission to have one in every place I travel. This one comes from An Choi, the asian version of a Michelada made with Vietnamese beer and sriracha instead of Mexican hotsauce. Up next: Paris. Thanks for watching.

More random images from Acrimony travels on instagram>>